Cosmetology Schools Want the Rules Trimmed Back

Congress should ignore lobbying efforts to exempt low-earning cosmetology programs from the Do No Harm rule.

One of the best parts of last year’s reconciliation bill was the introduction of an accountability rule called the Do No Harm rule that will cut off student loans for programs where students earn too little after graduation. The bar is very low. For undergraduate programs, graduates will only need to earn more than a comparable high school graduate who did not attend college, and for graduate programs, students need to earn more than those with a bachelor’s degree. Programs that fail to meet this benchmark for two out of three years would lose access to the federal student loan programs. Nevertheless, there are many programs that do not clear this very low bar. The Department of Education estimates that about six percent of programs would fail this test, and therefore lose access to federal student loans. Undergraduate certificate programs are the most likely to fail at 29 percent. By comparison, only 1.2 percent of bachelor’s degree programs will fail.

Among certificate programs, failures are further concentrated in specific fields, such as culinary services, where all programs are expected to fail, and cosmetology, where 92.5 percent are predicted to fail. Cosmetology schools have responded by launching an intense lobbying campaign to either keep this new rule from being implemented or get new legislation that exempts cosmetology from the rule.

Their lobbying should be ignored for three main reasons.

First, their claims can be quite misleading. Elizabeth Faye and Stacy Wells argue that the “beauty and wellness industry represents one of the last true pathways to middle-class prosperity.” But recall that a program only fails if its graduates earn less than a comparable worker with a high school diploma. As Preston Cooper notes, the typical graduate from a cosmetology program earns $27,000, an income that most would not consider a pathway to prosperity. They also claim that the regulations “threatens to close 92% of beauty and wellness schools.” This is not the case. Programs that fail the earnings test are not forced to close; they simply lose access to the student loan program. Moreover, as Rachel Fishman and Ewaoluwa Obatuase point out, it is possible for these programs to maintain access to Pell grants in some cases.  

The second reason to ignore the lobbying by cosmetologists is that many cosmetology schools already forgo participating in the federal aid programs. For example, in Texas, there are 824 cosmetology and barber schools, and only 117 (14 percent) of these participate in the federal aid programs. The existence and persistence of cosmetology schools that do not participate in the federal aid programs provides definitive proof that taking away access to student loans will not mean the end of cosmetology. Indeed, scholars have found that “these institutions can and do survive, and even thrive, alongside their aid-eligible counterparts.”

Third, the main effect of federal aid for cosmetology programs is to increase prices. Research by Stephanie Riegg Cellini and Claudia Goldin compared cosmetology programs that participated in the federal aid program to those that didn’t and found that the programs that utilized federal aid charged more. For example, in Florida, the state with the most comprehensive data, cosmetology programs that were eligible for aid charged 82 percent more than similar programs that did not utilize federal aid, which was roughly equal to the amount of federal aid their students received. In other words, federal aid didn’t make cosmetology programs more affordable for students; it padded the bottom line of cosmetology schools.

The bottom line is that Congress and the Department of Education did the right thing in establishing the Do No Harm rule to limit access to student loans for programs with low earnings outcomes. The accountability this rule imposes is eminently defensible on principle, easy to meet in practice, and yet effective in weeding out many financially predatory programs.

Congress and the Department should ignore any special interests, including cosmetology schools that are seeking to escape meeting even this low accountability threshold.

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  1. I think the other question that should be asked is if some professions have overly burdensome licensing requirements.

    I’ve seen the claim made that more classroom instruction is required to be license as a beautician then three licensed as EMT – and EMTs need to know a heck of a lot more than someone cutting hair.

    Perhaps one solution is to restrict the licensing requirements to knowing basic sanitation, and then have a voluntary accreditation that one could post to assure customers that the person knows all the things that someone thinks that a beautician needs to know.

    Just like with a lot of other things, including law schools, much of the intent is to reduce the number of people in a profession so that those in it can make more money.

    The same thing is true with culinary arts —there are basic sanitation and food safety things that we absolutely want people preparing food to know, but they can be taught in a week, probably less — and again, if restaurants are willing to pay more to hire people with fancy certificates, they’re free to do so.

    Hence, I think the real question we need to ask is why are we making people obtain largely unnecessary educations in order to work in relatively low paying fields, where the education is not necessary.

  2. I have been a cosmetologist, Cosmetology Instructor, Education and Show Director at3 major corporations and ran my own business. All due to my cosmetology license and many salon owners, stylists but commission and independent.
    There are many ways to earn well over 6 figures in the Beaty Industry and finding qualified and full time professionals is a must. Perhaps the numbers include part time stylists upon graduation. Presently I have gone back to teaching at Paul Mitchell Schools in Federal Way, WA

    1. This is a problem that higher education has in general, I sometimes refer to it as the higher education casino.

      Just like the traditional casino, there is some graduates who do fantastically well, and some graduates who don’t, some graduates who would be better off had they never gone to college.

      This is why the traditional casino, or the state lottery, has to calculate and publish the odds of winning. They can’t just profile a few people who win big, they also have to give out the information that allows a diligent person to figure out the odds of winning. And I’m no longer willing to say that success in higher education depends on hard work or ability — there are way too many variables of which the student has no choice starting with a freshman roommate.

      What I would like to see is a calculation of the median and modal incomes of the graduates of each college program, including cosmetology ones.

      A reminder is that there are three forms of averages, and the way I explain it to my students is that much as there is a median down the middle of a divided highway, with half of the road and one side and the other half of the other, a median average is half above and half below. Mode is what you have the most of, hence (generally speaking) the modal average income would be the income you see the most often. And mean average is you add them all up and divide by the number you have — and I would be “mean” if I were to ask you to do that by hand instead of using a calculator.

      The problem with using the mean average income to determine the average success of cosmetology school graduates is that someone like Rhonda, who has been very successful and has a very high income, will skew the average. An example I give of that is a 50 year-old teacher in a kindergarten class of twenty 5-year-olds.

      The mode here would be five, depending on how you calculated it, the median would either be five or slightly more. However, the mean average would be 22.7 because the teacher is so much older than the children. And that’s why I really want to see median and mode figures used.

      And Rhonda touches on something else it’s often overlooked in a lot of this, a lot of women go to college and then work part time by choice because they have children. Other women with college degree don’t work at all until their children have grown, a college friend of mine referred to it as “doing the mommy thing.”

      The statistics that will be very hard to develop is how many college graduates either aren’t working or are only working part-time by choice, because they want to have children, and how many of them are forced to work part-time because they can’t find full-time employment. Likewise, the statistic that could destroy a lot of conservative colleges is the number of women who graduate and then are out of the workforce for 5 to 10 years because they’re raising small children and have a husband supporting them.

      Rhonda’s point is the problem with evaluating programs on the basis of a mean average salary, we do need to remember that women in their 20s are having children — and we desperately need to have them have children…

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